ITALIAN WINE CLUB
NOVEMBER 2021
BASILICATA – STEPPING STRONG
Basilicata is rarely thought of when you think of wine regions in Italy. Nestled between Calabria (Italy’s toe) and Apulia (its heel), it is actually one of the smallest in regards to production, for a multitude of reasons. Most of the land would not be fit for grape cultivation if it weren’t for Mt. Vulture’s rich volcanic soil that absorbs heat from the sun’s rays throughout the day and then releases it during the night. This climate protects the grapes from experiencing sharp temperature fluctuations. That said, the terroir is still tough as nails on the grapes.
This month three of our wines feature the grape variety Aglianico. Here it is far from easy to grow – unwilling to succumb easily to cultivation, reaching maturation late, not very productive, and sensitive to mildew. In this small region (totaling about .3% of Italy’s wine production) red and rosé rule the roost, accounting for 82% of production. Of this, 80% is dedicated to Aglianico, Three of our wines feature this grape of this month, the fourth is Primitivo. Cheers!
– Kevin Wardell, November 2021
GRIFALCO ‘GRICOS’
Venosa, Basilicata, Italy 2019
AGLIANICO [al-YAN-ee-koh]
The Aglianico grape has been well known since ancient times, first planted here by the Greeks around the 6th or 7th century BC. It is grown on the slopes of Mount Vulture, and three natural factors determine the constitution and ripening of the grapes. Firstly, the volcanic soil is fertile and rich in particular mineral elements. Second, the tufo rock layers, deep down, act as water reservoirs during the drier periods of the year. Lastly, the many micro-climates, which create myriad growing challenges and advantages for the vineyards around the extinct volcano.
THE THREE PRODUCERS:
Grifalco sources the fruit for this entry level wine from the younger vines located on all four of their properties, notably Ginestra and Maschito, surrounding the historical and picturesque mountain village of Venosa, their winery homebase.
Cantina del Notaio is located in Rionero del Vulture, between the Barile and Ginestra Crus, but sources fruit from all seven of their vineyards, to encompass the entirety of the Vulture’s mineral rich clay and tufo terroir.
Musto Carmelitano is located in the Cru area of Maschito where elevation and specific blend of black volcanic sand, white calcareous and red clay are what drive the farming practices as well as the flavor complexities in the wines.
In 2004, Fabrizio and Cecilia Piccin, winemakers in Tuscany moved south to the promising slopes of Mount Vulture in Basilicata and founded Grifalco. They chose wisely as this is where the big, bold red grape Aglianico thrives. Today, their sons, Lorenzo (an oenologist who oversees the winemaking) and Andrea (who directs the commercial operation) together run the estate.
Lorenzo and Andrea organically farm 16 hectares of Aglianico on the hillside volcanic soils at altitudes between 450 and 580 meters with vines as old as 80 years. It is made from 100% estate-grown Aglianico from four different vineyards with vines that are 20+ years old. It is aged 6 months in a mix of older oak and 6 months in stainless.
Tightly wound with zippy acid and crunchy volcanic earth. Ruby red in the glass and an aromatic pop of cedar and spice, chock full of baked cherries and tart plums. Tons of texture to chew on for a table ‘table’ style wine that showcases the terroir first, the warm southern climate second.
Tense and grippy like a young Nebbiolo but not at all unapproachable in its tannins, though perhaps better off with something fatty and delicious. This wine is electric with some paté, fresh tomato bruschetta or even some baccalà.
The name Grifalco pays tribute to the family’s past and present, blending the Griffin, the symbol of their home of Montepulciano in Tuscany, and the Falcon that represents their adopted home on Mount Vulture.
CANTINA DEL NOTAIO
‘L’ATTO’
Maschito, Basilicata, Italy 2019
AGLIANICO [al-YAN-ee-koh]
The Aglianico grape has been well known since ancient times, first planted here by the Greeks around the 6th or 7th century BC. It is grown on the slopes of Mount Vulture, and three natural factors determine the constitution and ripening of the grapes. Firstly, the volcanic soil is fertile and rich in particular mineral elements. Second, the tufo rock layers, deep down, act as water reservoirs during the drier periods of the year. Lastly, the many micro-climates, which create myriad growing challenges and advantages for the vineyards around the extinct volcano.
THE THREE PRODUCERS:
Grifalco sources the fruit for this entry level wine from the younger vines located on all four of their properties, notably Ginestra and Maschito, surrounding the historical and picturesque mountain village of Venosa, their winery homebase.
Cantina del Notaio is located in Rionero del Vulture, between the Barile and Ginestra Crus, but sources fruit from all seven of their vineyards, to encompass the entirety of the Vulture’s mineral rich clay and tufo terroir.
Musto Carmelitano is located in the Cru area of Maschito where elevation and specific blend of black volcanic sand, white calcareous and red clay are what drive the farming practices as well as the flavor complexities in the wines.
The Giuratrabocchetti family has a long history of wine-making and passing down to the next generation. In 1998 the Cantine del Notaio estate in Rionero was born when both Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti, with his degree in Agricultural Science, and his wife Marcella, accepted the challenge of producing Aglianico del Vulture wine.
Cantina del Notaio’s 40 hectares of vineyards are distributed amongst the most characteristic and renowned hillsides in the Mount Vulture area, in the villages of Rionero, Barile, Ripacandida, Maschito and Ginestra, and possess vines more than a hundred years old. These areas have different soils (sand, volcanic residue, medium consistency or clay) but the same layer of volcanic tufo in common, and a soil microclimate (a combination of temperature, water content, and aeration) which allows a perfect ripening of the grapes. The very latest ones to ripen are harvested mid-October to mid-November.
Nose is ample with juicy red fruits and dried herbs. The flavor profile follows through beautifully- Bing cherry, perfectly plump plums, and cranberry- just a tinge of the acid and tannins you might expect from Aglianico. The depth in this wine lies within the layers of fruit and the softer nuanced crushed stone earthy textured. An easy sipper, for sure, but this wine can definitely stand up to a simply prepared but perfectly grilled steak.
Cantina del Notaio’s wine ‘La Firma’ is almost unanimously regarded as the best and most age worthy Aglianico del Vulture – worth seeking out and experiencing.
MUSTO CARMELITANO
‘SERRE DEL PRETE’
Basilicata, Italy 2016
AGLIANICO [al-YAN-ee-koh]
The Aglianico grape has been well known since ancient times, first planted here by the Greeks around the 6th or 7th century BC. It is grown on the slopes of Mount Vulture, and three natural factors determine the constitution and ripening of the grapes. Firstly, the volcanic soil is fertile and rich in particular mineral elements. Second, the tufo rock layers, deep down, act as water reservoirs during the drier periods of the year. Lastly, the many micro-climates, which create myriad growing challenges and advantages for the vineyards around the extinct volcano.
THE THREE PRODUCERS:
Grifalco sources the fruit for this entry level wine from the younger vines located on all four of their properties, notably Ginestra and Maschito, surrounding the historical and picturesque mountain village of Venosa, their winery homebase.
Cantina del Notaio is located in Rionero del Vulture, between the Barile and Ginestra Crus, but sources fruit from all seven of their vineyards, to encompass the entirety of the Vulture’s mineral rich clay and tufo terroir.
Musto Carmelitano is located in the Cru area of Maschito where elevation and specific blend of black volcanic sand, white calcareous and red clay are what drive the farming practices as well as the flavor complexities in the wines.
Elisabetta Musto Carmelitano’s family has been making wine for four generations in the DOCG of Aglianico del Vulture, although for much of that time the production had been mainly selling grapes. Elisabetta followed the family business, but in 2006 she began building the current winery and created Azienda Agricola Musto Carmelitano with help from her father and brother.
The winery is in Maschito, just south of Monte Vulture, the extinct volcano that provides mineral-rich, volcanic soil for the great wines of Basilicata. Her vision was to glorify Aglianico’s elegant qualities distinct from the over-extracted wines produced locally. They have been farming organically since the beginning and have been certified organic since 2010. Vines here are as old as 100 years and total production of wine is a miniscule 2500 cases.
All the markers for Aglianico right from the start – black cherries and mixed forest berries, cured meats, charred fennel, violets, black peppercorns and dusty leather boots. Complex, big and ripe with flavors that last forever on the palate. All that roundness is integrated well with a sweet tannin profile which gets better and better with a little bit of air.
Big and bold Aglianico does not have to be a monster or soaked in new oak. The grape character and terroir can provide strength and finesse alike, an amazing experience in the right winemaker’s hands.
The volcanic soils allow the estate’s hearty old vines to remain on their own rootstock due to the inherent resistance to the phylloxera bug.
TENUTA PARCO DEI MONACI
'MONACELLO’
Matera, Basilicata, Italy 2016
PRIMITIVO [pree-muh-TEE-voh]
Primitivo by any other name…
Primitivo is indeed synonymous with what was at one time referred to as the only true Californian grape (in the Vitis Vinifera family, of course.) It’s genealogical roots have long been hunted and have finally been confirmed to have begun on the Croatian coastline, within the Plavac Mali family, but more specifically to the Island of Hvar, by the name Tribidrag or Crljenak Kaštelanski.
Most famously a powerhouse and workhorse from Puglia, but in the southern reaches of Basilicata (in the romantically beautiful city of Matera – an absolute must visit) Primitivo finds itself slightly more textured and complex.
Tenuta Parco dei Monaci (Monks Park) is an ancient estate south of Matera in Sassi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Murgia plateau where the only lands that can be plowed are small terraces on naked limestone. The winery was established in 2007 by husband and wife Rosa Padula and Matteo Trabacca, exactly one hundred years after Rosa’s grandfather Francesco was born.
Francesco grew Primitivo grapes and aged his wines in the caves of Matera. This certainly played a part in influencing Rosa and Matteo in their endeavors. Primitivo grapes have a much longer past here. In the second half of the XVIII century the Benedictine Monks planted a vineyard of Primitivo grapes that, because of its quality, soon extended to the entire plateau down to the coast. Matera was finally established as a DOC in 2005.
Through the looking glass, you might expect something more akin to big jammy style from Puglia, but this is a surprisingly nuanced example of the grape. Lovely and lush with sour cherry, black and red currants, black licorice and some slightly bitter cocoa. There is a slight herbed olive vein to it as well that helps tame that ripe round fruit. The finish is unendingly leather glove smooth. Primitivo shows some versatility here in Matera and brings another dimension to the still evolving Basilicata wine landscape.
Interestingly, the more savvy California Zin producers are now experimenting or working with Primitivo clones because of its heightened ability to retain acidity.