Cortese has historically been less known by its varietal name but more by it’s appellation. Gavi di Gavi or Cortese di Gavi, it’s still simply referred to as Gavi. It’s the most storied white grape in Piedmont, without question, and has had its reputation as a top wine throughout Italy’s long history. But despite many big producers and importers still making that claim, the fact is that much of what is out there in recent years does not seem to inspire such praise. What IS important though is that the revitalization is coming as many smaller champions of the grape are making certain that their more artisanally crafted wines are outshining the abundance of more commercially made wines.