GROWER CHAMPAGNE CLUB
DECEMBER 2021
HEAR!! HEAR!! A TOAST!!
Every year in December we choose to simply celebrate great wines. We all agree that Champagne season is a 365 thing, honestly, but you may find many more occasions to pop some corks this month. There are always so many things to focus on when learning about Champagne; the blend of grapes (if not 100%), the blend of vintages in the bottling (if not vintage), the blend of aging vessels (if wood and/or SS), as well as the blending of sugar added back via dosage (again, if any.) Sometimes the dominant grape variety is what shines through in a Champagne regardless of all of those other fluctuating factors.
This month we’re tasting through two fabulously expressive examples of the flavor range of Pinot Noir in Champagne. Sometimes it is not the time to study, to mentally disassemble and try to make sense of things. Sometimes we just need to toast and drink.
During this holiday season we encourage you to fill (and refill) your glass and enjoy what it brings to the table. Our sincere thank you for continuing this journey with us. All the best to you this holiday season!
Kevin Wardell, December 2021
GATINOIS BRUT ROSÉ GRAND CRU
Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne, Champagne NV
If there is a place to produce stellar champagne, Aÿ is the place. It has been known for its sparkling wines dating back to the Middle Ages even before the official discovery of Champagne two hundred years later. And it has the prestige to show for it, being one of the rare 17 villages that is classified as Grand Cru in the Champagne region.
The Gattinois house traces back twelve generations of Champagne production on the Aÿ hillsides. To date, they’ve painstakingly created timeliness and elegant sparkling wines with their traditional approach to winemaking. Pinot Noir is the pride of Aÿ and provides the powerful foundation for all their blends, while the Chardonnay brings the freshness and zingy acidity.
It no doubt possesses richness, evident in the uniquely rose gold color in the glass. Rosewater doing the tango with wild white strawberries, and the red cherry markers of Pinot is profoundly obvious, straight away. The concentration of fine bubbles is like a cold clean jacuzzi in your mouth. A parade of pomegranate, rhubarb, and strawberry fruit rollup gives way to a subtle finish of doughy yeast.
Not at all shy, this is an expressive Rosé at full throttle that will be a true joy to share at the close of 2021 or well beyond, as the wine shows it is built to age
This cuvée combines three vintages, with the majority being from the most recent vintage, and 30% of reserve wine. 7% of Côteaux Champenois Grand Cru (Pinot Noir) is blended with 83% Pinot Noir white juice to acquire the color. Aged 2+ years before yeasts are disgorged. 7g/l dosage.
ALAIN COUVREUR BLANC DE NOIRS
Prouilly, Vallée de la Marne, Champagne NV
Champagne Alain Couvreur began in 1961, but truly started from a long line of farmers and barrel makers over five generations on the Massif de Saint-Thierry and in the Vesle valley. The estate is in the town of Prouilly, along the Marne, while the vineyards’ encompass over four communes – with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier planted in Prouilly, Pévy and Branscourt while Chardonnay is located in Unchair, a village eleven kilometers from Prouilly.
The vineyard soils are composed of varying clay-limestone, limestone, and chalk. His Blanc de Noirs was awarded the Grande Médaille d’Or in the Mondial de Bruxelles. This sort of recognition, especially for small growers like these, can mean far more than it may seem.
A brilliant pale gold, steeped in sour cherry and plum fruit leaves. A slice of fresh cut green veggies on the nose as well, offering a fine friendly bit of funk. It is a taste bud tickler that starts with tart rumple-plum-skin, and exotic lychee fruit. As it breathes off that green scent, it lets loose freshly cut lemon and microplaned citrus rinds.
Wound up more tightly than some other Blanc de Noirs, more flavors akin to something like Pinot Blanc than Noir. The backbone, however, provides plenty of Pinot power that is unmistakable, and magnifies the overall complexity as well as the enjoyability.
Aged in stainless steel and in the bottle for 36 months on the lees. 60% of wines from the last vintage are blended with 40% of reserve wines from a solera dating back 12 years. 7g/L Dosage.