ALL WHITE WINE CLUB
NOVEMBER 2021
THE VERSATILITY AND VIBRANCY OF FIANO [fee-AH-no]
Fiano is arguably Italy’s hero when it comes to native white grapes. It is certainly one of the oldest. But while it’s a favorite on wine lists these days, it was rarely to be found in a wine shop or restaurant prior to the 1970’s. It wasn’t until the 1980’s (thanks to the Mastroberardino family) that Fiano was identified correctly and produced as a varietal wine (versus simply being mixed into local blends.)
Antonio Mastroberardino sought out native varieties in the Avellino region eliciting their greatness and singing their praises. Fiano has become so celebrated that it’s now being planted in many other regions – Basilicata, Marche, Sicily, and even further beyond in California and Australia. Volcanic soils are truly the best when it comes to Fiano really showing its shine, bringing out the minerally and fruity character that defines the grape.
This month enjoy four exceptional examples of one hell of a grape – just in time for holiday feasts and merrymaking with friends.
– Kevin Wardell, November 2021
VADIAPERTI
Campania, Italy
The Troisi family of Azienda Agricola Vadiaperti have been multi-generation torchbearers of wine from Irpinia, a region of Campania in southern Italy with a long history of vine-growing. Winemaker Raffaele Troisi’s great grandfather, Antonio, was the first Troisi to plant vines, with a passion for local varieties such as Fiano. While Raffaele died young, his wife Elisa kept his vision alive, developing a talent for determining the health of her vines or the right time to harvest by sight and touch, and became one of the region’s most knowledgeable vine growers.
Now in the hands of Elises son, Antonio, the Troisi family remains true in honoring Irpinia’s native grapes and overseeing the mineral-rich tufo and volcanic rock soils. Their estate vineyards are located in and around the town of Montefredane, from 1,200 to 2,100 feet above sea level, with vines ranging from 25 to 50 years old.
A bit of lean fresh cut pineapple peeks through on the nose followed by some elderflower. A complex twist up of minerality, tropicality and delicate floral notes that combine for the ultimate crisp refreshment. Sharp acidity leaves the mouth watering and delights with a citrus peel pithy feel like a fresh squeezed summer cocktail. Finishing again with that clean minerality that demands some seafood, and of course another glass.
The Vadiaperti is situated on the border between Campania’s two most important DOCGs, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo but they are most famous for their work with Coda di Volpe.
TENUTA SARNO 1860
Campania, Italy 2018
Maura Sarno is considered one of the most important winegrowers in Irpinia. Her path in wine was already laid out for her, though it wasn’t an immediate road there. After receiving her law degree, she followed her father Domenico (the first notary in Avellino the main town of Irpinia) and worked in the notary’s office for twenty years. After her father’s death, Maura managed the family’s properties that included her grandmother’s land in Candida, an ancient village in Avellino, where she grew Fiano vines and produced bulk wine.
The Sarno family ancestors began cultivating vines and producing wines here in 1860, and Maura now singularly dedicates her vineyard to the Fiano grape. From organically farmed vines, in calcareous clay and limestone, this Fiano authentically expresses its high-altitude mountainous terroir. Winemaker Vincenzo Mercurio further coaxes out the vibrancy and delicacy of this prized grape, and the true character of the region.
Golden bright in a glass as the nose reveals white peach, grapefruit citrus and some toasted hazelnuts. Fiano can sometimes remind you of some of the great french wines, in this case there’s a nice sense of Sancerre. Add a zing of white pepper and flinty soil and you are zoomed straight back to the grape’s native volcanic southern Italian soils. Simultaneously refreshing and serious, this is a great example of what Fiano is all about.
The property is the Sarno family home and one to behold. The property includes a park beautified with over 2,000 varieties of flowers and trees from all over the world. And the stunning home’s parlor acts as the tasting room.
DE CONCILIIS
‘SELIM’
Paestum, Campania, Italy NV
The De Conciliis family had been selling grapes from their vineyards in Cilento to a local cooperative, until 1996 when Bruno De Conciliis took over management of the estate. He had been studying Italian literature in Bologna, but a large earthquake in 1980 in southern Italy instigated his return back to his homeland. His focus turned to how he could contribute to the community, after having seen towns fall and slowly being rebuilt and eventually led to winemaking.
Bruno’s philosophy with the family estate has been respect for the land and grapes, the culture and local relationship between the people and the earth, and the people who do the work. The winery has been energy self-sufficient since 2007, certified organic and has been led by biodynamic farming. There is minimal intervention to the winemaking using indigenous yeasts and low sulfites added to bottling. And as De Conciliis is located in one of the poorest areas of Campania, Bruno strives to re-hire workers, pay above living wages, and guarantee them year-round work.
This dry sparkler is as unique as the winemaker that crafted it. Floral and fruity with citron and fresh pear aromas. A quaffable, but not at all simple sparkler with notable minerality harking to the limestone soil with a skosh of saltiness on the palate. There is a bit of red apple and white cherry intertwined from the Aglianico but it doesn’t stand out the way Pinot does in Champagne, for example. The finish returns back to nice pear flavors and some dry grassy notes that makes this just a fun bubbly wine that reaches well beyond so many one note examples like Prosecco.
There is no greater fan of jazz and specifically Miles Davis than Bruno De Conciliis who plays music to his grapevines. Selim is so named for Miles spelled backwards.
CIRO PICARIELLO
‘BRUT CONTADINO’
Campania, Italy 2018
Among the Irpinian hills bridging Montefredane and Summonte, close to Avellino, lies the petite cult family winery of Ciro Picariello. Ciro and his wife Rita started the winery in 1997, but released their first vintage in 2004. Ciro is an architect by training who turned winemaker once he met his wife Rita, who owned land perfect for grape growing in Summonte. It became a larger family affair when their daughter Emma and son Bruno, a viticulture school graduate joined the operation, producing approximately 5,500 cases of wine a year.
Ciro Picariello is guided by natural and organic winemaking practices, only using organic fertilizers along with small amounts of copper and sulfur. No oak is used, and the wine is unfiltered and made in the classic Champagne method with second fermentation in the bottle.
A little jasmine, hay, granny smith apples and star fruit aroma. Champagne fine bubbles with beautifully integrated yeasty, biscuity notes creating a simply great mouthfeel. Too often wines made in method champenoise lose their individual character and succumb to just being delicious, but perhaps falling short of what could be.
Grapefruit zest and toasted pine nuts really showcase the Fiano varietal. The depth that is created by the lees contact makes for a whole new experience for the already stellar wine heights of Avelino! Yes to oysters and hard cheeses and drink out of a white wine glass so you don’t miss out on the aromatic profile.
Ciro makes two bottlings of his ‘Brut Contadino’; this one which has been disgorged like champagne and another where the natural yeast is still present in the bottle. This makes for either a cloudy wine or a creative approach to opening it.