ITALIAN WINE CLUB
March 2021
MARCHE MADNESS!
Due only to the insane embarrassment of beautiful riches that the Italian countryside possesses, a place like Le Marche can still remain as undiscovered and unspoiled as it still is. I always refer to it as the opposite of Tuscany; not only the opposite coast line but also opposite with regards to the degree of tourism. The beauty, the charm, the culture could be easily its equal… but the food may actually be a bit better in the Marche (which should be enough reason to book a trip, you know, when we’re allowed to do that again) and the wines are certainly far more diverse. The list of white grapes alone is impressive: Verdicchio and Pecorino as the top wines, and lesser known ones like Albanella, Bianchello, Ribona and Passerina. The red vines are predominantly Montepulciano and Sangiovese, but there is also a super uniquely aromatic group of native grapes: Lacrima, Aleatico and Vernaccia Nera di Serrapetrona (which is often made like a Lambrusco.)
Very few of the local wines garner half the attention they deserve, but the resilient and consistently delightful nature of every Marchegiani winemaker I’ve ever met keeps them humbly believing they are making something very special. I could not agree with them more.
– Kevin Wardell, March 2021
DOWNLOAD PDF OF TASTING NOTES HERE
MADONNABRUNA 'MAREE'
Falerio, Marche, Italy, 2019
PECORINO [pek-or-EE-no]
Pecorino was rediscovered by Marchegiani wine icon Cocci Grifoni, by way of a rumor about an 80 year old farmer in Aquata del Tronto who owned an abandoned vineyard perched at 1000 meters above sea level planted entirely to a forgotten variety. Now Pecorino is having a bit of a moment in the sun in both Marche and Abruzzo as producers are discovering its versatility as a high quality wine that compliments their local terroir and climate perfectly.
Just a few miles inland from the picturesque seaside town of Porto San Giorgio, Madonnabruna is a small 30 acre family winery focused primarily on the two local grapes, Pecorino and Passerina. There are still very few high quality examples of Passerina, but families like the Petraccis are doing a great job changing that perception. The family has farmed these grapes for three generations, but have only been producing their own wine for the past 20 years. The Fermo growing region in southern Marche, but just north of the Offida DOCG, has a notably more mild coastal climate and is marked by its distinctly white colored mineral rich clay soils.
Pecorino is not normally renowned for brightly floral aromatics, but this is certainly an exception. Fresh cut flowers, wild mint and green pistachio. Tense but texted, the palate shows the kind of salinity you expect in a good Fino Sherry. A kiss of confection from Salt water taffy and honey nougat is balanced off by crunchy Granny Smith Apples and a soft karate kick of spice to bring it all home. Crisp and briny sushi juice.
Much of the Marche coastline is peppered with insanely good restaurants featuring raw seafood crudo straight out of the Adriatic. This wine should be inescapably served alongside those dishes.
ANDREA FELICI
'IL CANTICO DELLA FIGURA'
Jesi, Marche, Italy 2017
VERDICCHIO [ver-dikkyo]
Although Verdicchio is no longer a secret to those who have dug deep into this subject, there is still a massive ceiling that has barely been scratched since the regrettable years of rather neutral wines sold cheaply in fish shaped bottles. In recent years Italy gave DOCG status to many deserving grapes. Verdicchio now has DOCG status in the crisp mountainous appellation of Matelica as well as the rounder wines from the Castelli di Jesi that reach down towards the coast. The difference is evident in the soil as well as the altitude: Matelica is rich in mountain minerals where Jesi is rich in coastal clay providing deeper layers complexity and more powerful wines in general.
The Andrea Felici winery sits on a hillside at the foot of Mount San Vicino at an altitude of 516 meters above the Adriatic. While most of the surrounding area is rolling farmlands for cereal grains, their organic vineyards are framed by untouched woods and backdropped by the mountain peak views to the North, West and South. The Felici’s are well versed in the advantages of their Limestone rich soils (when compared to the more prominent dense clay) which produce phenomenal results. This single vineyard Verdicchio has a bit of skin contact for texture, but otherwise is fermented and aged entirely in Stainless and cement as opposed to some of the other modern examples where one might find oak influence.
Puffed corn and Marcona Almonds dipped in Mandarin marmalade. Mango granita served in a terra cotta clay bowl. Gritty crushed stone, white pepper and celery salt sprinkled over a nest of nectarines. A really good Verdicchio can deliver a level of complexity that can get you poetically tongue tied. This wine, as well many other examples of Verdicchio, just continue to evolve to a ‘next level’ category of Italian white wines. Bangin.
The Castelli di Jesi is highly influenced by the Adriatic Sea climate, but soils in the western hillside towns of Apiro, Cupramontana and Staffolo are fast becoming recognized as ‘Cru’ subzones as the quality of Verdicchio continues to skyrocket.
LUIGI GIUSTI
LACRIMA DI MORRO D'ALBA
Marche, Italy 2018
LACRIMA [la-kri-ma]
Lacrima is an Italian word you may recognize, meaning ‘tear’ or ‘tear drop,’ So named for the loose shape of the grapes that can resemble tears. Or because the fragile thin skins of the grape have a tendency to break and let go teardrops of juice. Or is it simply just so good it will bring tears to your eyes? As with many Italian wines and grapes, the explanation is best left to a good story. You decide. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba was nearing extinction in the early 80’s, as it was rapidly losing ground to the more popular, and far more prolific Montepulciano grape, but all this changed with the arrival of DOC recognition. Luigi Giusti played a key part in it’s revival with his vineyards planted in coastal clay just a few kilometers from the Adriatic Sea. It is not at all easy to grow, but the reward is evident. Witnessing the ear to ear smiles of locals filling their damigiana with Lacrima (for, like, €5) is more than enough to elicit an Amen!
Luigi’s son, Piergiovanni Giusti is simply the greatest. His infectious grin makes you instantly feel like he’s got something figured out. His self deprecating humility says otherwise, equally as charming. There is no greater champion for this difficult grape variety, via his personality and his magic touch. Piergiovanni notes that a number of people have tried growing Lacrima elsewhere and failed.
“It is extremely loyal to its home and the people who have always cared for it.”
Ever willing to experiment, Piergiovanni makes two Riserva bottlings to explore the grapes potential interactions with oak (try the Rubbjano wherever you can) as well as two delicately perfumed rose wines, sparkling and still.
When it comes to wildly aromatic red grape varieties, Lacrima clearly reigns supreme. Earl Grey Tea, due not only to the distinct Bergamot citrus scent, but there is also a slight dusty black tea tannin. Red Cherries galore with a whiff of Nag Champa. Blueberry confit, dusted with dried wild thyme and blood orange peel dusted with dried thyme. Take a minute to consider this wine- it is incredible how this grape boasts such naturally intense scent and flavor. Pair with a spreadable salumi, like the local fav Ciauscolo or ‘Nduja, or a wild mushroom and bechamel lasagna.
If you want to try a sweet wine that causes instant euphoria, Giusti also makes a traditional ‘Visciola’ (Lacrima fermented with dried sour cherries) that will make your head spin. In a really good way.
SAN LORENZO
'BURELLO' ROSSO PICENO
+ 40% SANGIOVESE
Marche, Italy 2016
MONTEPULCIANO [MOHN-teh-pool-CHEE’AH-noh]
+ SANGIOVESE [san-GEE-OH-vay-say]
In the Marche region it is said, by the locals of course, that Montepulciano is a different type, if not a different grape entirely, from the one heavily grown in Abruzzo. This point of view does not scientifically pan out, but there is a noticeable difference. The results can be more likely attributed to the usual suspects: soil, farming approach and microclimates. It has so many great qualities – high yields, disease resistant, loves warmer weather. For much of the region it is blended with Sangiovese, like in this central Rosso Piceno appellation, but the varietal Montepulciano wines from the small, coastal Conero DOCG, as well as a number of examples from further down the coast ( down to Offida) are the real powerhouses.
Natalino is a third generation farmer that has carried on his organic and biodynamic practices the same way he has been taught all his life. His property can seem much more like a bio-diverse petting zoo than most vineyards out there (see: wine labels.) He is primarily known for making Verdicchios that can seemingly age forever. He works with the typical red grapes – Montepulciano, Sangiovese – and even makes a little bit of Lacrima. He has an infectious joie de vivre and laugh that you can hear across the room.
Brooding dark cherry compote and cinnamon bark mixed with sweet potting soil and fresh mushrooms. Some baked black plums with touch of dried suede leather with cocoa tannins that come on slow and suave but with the definitive muscle of the Montepulciano grape. 2016 was the best recent growing year in Le Marche, and this wine not only shows the potential, but is also a high standard for quality in the Rosso Piceno DOC.
Natalino actually has a walled off ‘secret room’ in his cellar where, in great vintages, he will put whole tanks of Verdicchio aside to sleep for at least a decade!