To get to the bottom of the “Tail of the Fox” we’ll just yield the floor to our friend and mentor, Ian D’agata:
“Though teachers will never admit it, they almost always have a favorite student in their class, much as writers will always have a favorite one of their characters over another. So I feel entitled to state unabashedly that Coda di Volpe Bianca is one of my favorite Italian native grapes.”
Insanely high praise from the legend. Could it even be possible that in the region that already boasts white wine rockstars- Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo as well as restaurateur fan-favorite, Falanghina- there is yet another great to be discovered? Hold on to your foxtails folks.
Vadiaperte is ground zero for Coda fi Volpe and continues to set the bar for those paying attention. Antonio Troisi carries on a storied family production, including the region’s first ever single varietal bottle Fiano di Avellino made by his great grandfather. His parents were the ones who established the Vadiaperte label and have passed him the torch to tend to the naturally farmed vineyards on volcanic “tufo” soils, up to 2,100 feet above sea level in the hills of Montefredane. Their “cru“ wine, ‘Torama’ is truly Coda di Volpe at its apex. They don’t make very much, as you might imagine, but it is more than worth seeking out in order to make like a fox and chase this rabbit further down the hole.
As if Muscadet were grown on an old volcano… This simple statement has just made 60% of you involuntarily salivate. You know who you are, you Pavlovian pups. It may seem a bit crisp and simple at first, but much like Muscadet, there are many layers crammed within its narrow profile. Spring meadow, fresh straw, flinty tuffaceous, salted green melon, preserved lemon on a barbecued oyster. Lean, focused and minerality for nations. But there is also this unique, fragrant appeal that quickly has you desiring a revisit to refresh the experience. Kind of like biting into a ripe and spongy pomelo pith. Without having to pay too much attention, it is an amazing every day drinker. With a little extra focus and patience, this wine is much, much more.
To add to the confusion… The one place Italian wine lovers may have tried Coda di Volpe was in the famed wines Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio Bianco… which turns out is more likely a grape named Caprettone.