GROWER CHAMPAGNE CLUB
SEPTEMBER 2020
Farmer Fizz, as it’s lovingly known, is the bubbles you’ve always dreamed of. Textured, layered, thoughtful and blissful – now meet the grower-producers that are simultaneously stretching and embracing tradition.
GROWER CHAMPAGNE NO.1
Michel Gonet ‘Les Hautes Mottes’ Grand Cru Blanc des Blancs Chardonnay
Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne, France 2011
Champagne Michel Gonet has a broad range of Champagnes, with over 10 different cuvées in different markets. To make things even more complicated, there are also a few other ‘Gonets’ producing Champagne that they are also easily confused with. This particular wine marks a new direction for the house, however, and one that is sure to help them stand out in the inquentiable US market for the right reason: as great Champagne. Gonet’s vineyard holdings are substantial but only now will we start seeing the shift towards site specific and terroir driven Champagnes. The new approach has come with a partnership between Gonet and Marco Pelletier; Sommelier, vigneron and restaurateur from Paris. This 2011 vintage wine comes entirely from their most historic lieu dit : Les Hautes Mottes, in Mesnil Sur Oger. A rare storyline to follow, a ship turning slowly towards new horizons with history and pedigree already in its sails.
Not only does this come from an incredible ‘lieu dit’ in the iconic Mesnil Sur Oger, it’s also zero dosage! The retained tension and focused acidity brings that fact right to attention immediately upon tasting. Meyer lemon rinds, pomelo and white pepper as well as a polished crystalline minerality. The finish gives just a hint of the leesy, biscuity dimension and softens up with a pretty little note of herbs and dried flowers. Wound up tight and still crazy energetic, the wine is showing more youth than it is any aged development at this point and could easily be put down for far longer.
Disgorged in October 2019. 100% Chardonnay from the Les Hautes Mottes property in Le Mesnil Sur Oger. 5 years on its lees and is zero dosage.
GROWER CHAMPAGNE NO.2
Ruelle-Pertois Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay
Moussy, Champagne, France 2011
Both Michel Ruelle and his wife Martine Pertois grew up with Champagne producing parents, so when they got married in the early 70’s there was only one clear thing to do. Now run by their son and daughter, Benoit and Virginie, Ruelle-Pertois remains a very small, humble and artisan winery. How they have somehow managed to remain humble and still somewhat unknown in modern day Champagne is nothing shy of miraculous. Located in Moussy, the literal crossroads of the Marne and the Cote des Blancs, and with every vine of the families Chardonnay located in Grand Cru villages, you’d have to bet against anyone like this still flying under the radar. Yet here they are, a lovely family operated gem, quietly making killer juice, keeping it real with only about 4000 cases TOTAL production each year.
Star fruit with a skosh of sourdough start, candied lemon and chopped lemongrass, honeycomb on challah, bruised apples backed by buttery brioche. Ample acidity alongside tantalizing tertiary notes, redolent of roasted almonds and round radishes. This is classic Champagne de Chardonnay to the core, complete with a bit of creme brulee. All alliterations aside; Insanely great quality vintage Champagne from your new favorite micro-grower.
Made of 100% Chardonnay from the family’s Grand Cru vineyards in Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. Disgorged to order, usually spending on average 8 years sur lie. 7-gram dosage