GROWER CHAMPAGNE CLUB
OCTOBER 2021
TWO BOUZY CLOUETS
Bouzy is arguably (some say easily) the most revered Grand Cru village in Montagne de Reims and one does not have to look far to see how the history of the Clouet name is intertwined throughout. The south facing slopes of Pinot Noir are distinctly mapped out according to single vineyard sites, and the most exclusive grapes go to the big house contracts like Bollinger, Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, and Taittinger.
Bouzy is also one of the few villages from which you’ll find a long standing (and recognized) tradition for making a still Pinot out of their Grand Cru grapes. Although growing seasons are getting noticeably warmer for places like Champagne, it is still a rare thing to find these Bouzy Rouge wines – never maxing out over 50,000 bottles total in a great year. Both of these Champagnes are top notch reflections of the beautiful Bouzy terroir despite being quite different, as well as being equally important representations of the Clouet name that is historically synonymous in this iconic village.
Cheers!
Kevin Wardell, October 2021
ANDRÉ CLOUET
"GRANDE RÉSERVE"
GRAND CRU
Bouzy, Champagne, France NV
If there were ever a reason to break away from the hardline of only drinking Grower Champagne, it should be for a house like this. Growers they are, and historically important ones here in Bouzy for sure, and they were classified as such with the RM designation for a long time. They have since changed to NM when they expanded operations, but Andre Clouet can clearly still be considered a smaller artisan producer. The status of Négociant-Manipulant means that purchased grapes can be included in the Champagne, but by no means does that put them in the category of the bigger houses that contract out the majority of their vineyards.
The Clouet family dates back to the 1400’s in Bouzy, began as a wine making house in 1741, and were known as a family of great import by the mid 1800’s. They were known as the official printers for the Royal Court at Versailles, hence the old school yet lavish label design. Beneath their historic propery you will find a labyrinth-like chalk cellar in which you can still see the false walls that were used to hide the precious Champagne bottles during the Nazi invasions during World War II.
Curvaceous, with a cheery cherry disposition. Although there is plenty of citrus to cut through this deep doughy delight, it is simply not a wine that relies on too much edginess like many others do these days. It leans more toward base (bass) notes than brightness. Think of nice ripe blueberries – tart and refreshing, but the heart of the fruit is really its rich juiciness. A bit of baked hazelnuts as well… dare we say a skosh of Nutella?! This is easily the very best ‘value’ Grand Cru Champagne to be had, over-delivering in so many ways, hedonistically so.
100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir from Bouzy. All Paul Clouet wines undergo full malolactic fermentation. Aged in stainless-steel on lees for 5 years. 8 grams/l dosage.
PAUL CLOUET
GRAND CRU
BLANC DE NOIRS MV
Bouzy, Champagne, France MV
Drinking great Grower Champagne is always a special treat; having the chance to drink Paul Clouet wine is more like a rare unicorn moment that should be enjoyed to its absolute fullest. This domaine produces less that 5,000 cases of wine, all with a style that expresses the strength and polish of Bouzy. Paul Clouet has been a private label since 1907 but shares their production facility with Bonnaire Champagne. Paul Clouet’s granddaughter, Marie-Thérèse, has been in charge since the 90’s and has been quietly yet steadily been creating better and better results each year. Bouzy has no shortage of iconic houses, but because of its Grand Cru status the majority of the vineyards are controlled by the big ones. That said, to drink this particular wine is to truly taste the wonder of Bouzy.
Far from shy indeed, this is a wine that seems to give 110%. Immediately pure Pinot on the nose, as well as the last lingering fruit on the tongue. Rich dough, like a freshly baked blackberry and lemon scone, and tart like pomegranate that pops around in your mouth. Stunningly, for all that flashy fruit, this wine has intense mineral structure as well as a near perfect vein of acid ripping straight along the palate – and not one bit intrusive or overpowering. This is a special Blanc de Noir that brings the layers with a polished precision and fruit driven weight that is memorably impressive.
100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir from Bouzy. All Paul Clouet wines undergo full malolactic fermentation. Aged in stainless on the lees for 5 years. Disgorged May 2020. 5 grams/l dosage.