The Laherte family has been growing in Champagne for over 130 years, beginning in 1889 when Jean-Baptiste Laherte established his estate. He planted 12 acres in the village of Chavot just south of Epernay, at the confluence of the Côtes des Blanc and the Marne Valley. This interesting sub-region has pockets of soil resembling both geologically differing regions, and with such a rich diversity of terroirs, the family cultivates the three major Champagne grapes across 26 acres and 75 parcels – mostly on the southern slopes of Epernay but also a few holdings of 1er Cru Chardonnay vineyards (Vertus and Voipreux) and Meunier (Le Breuil and Bourgault) in Vallée de la Marne.
Today the family estate is headed by the fifth generation vigneron Aurélien Laherte, who took over in 2005 and quickly became one of the region’s sustainability champions and a rising star. He farms manually with a team of family members- aunts, uncles and cousins- who work according to the lunar calendar and even use unique therapies like plant infusions to bolster vine vigor. Aurélien has begun using year-round cover crops in order to enrich the soil microbiome and to reduce the need for plowing. Fermentation takes place in tanks, foudres and barrels, malo is usually only partially completed, and wines are aged a minimum of 6 months before tirage bottling, with little to no final dosage.
A briney seaweed umami is first out of the glass, followed with a sweet fruity cupcake batter- this is the mystery of Meunier, at once earthy and dense, it’s also just as fruity as you please. Glowing highlights of orange citrus and gushing red berries are drizzled with rhubarb syrup and burnt caramel. There’s crunchy caraway seeds in rye toast, baked grains and lemon poppy seed scones. The acid is as crunchy as the white rind of a watermelon and the yeasty texture is as decadent and rich as salted macadamia nuts.
A blend of 30% macerated Meunier, 60% clear, pressed wine and 10% still red wine. 2017 and 2016 vintages, disgorged March 2020, 2.5 grams per liter dosage.