GROWER CHAMPAGNE CLUB
JANUARY 2022
BILLIOT ET FILS
Laetitia Billiot is the fourth generation at Billiot Champagnes in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay and has been one of my favorite producers in the past few years. Her father was really the one to take the small grower estate to the next level but she admits that he kept his methods in the cellar very secretive so it took some years after he retired for her to begin to unlock the mysteries of what makes Billiot special.
From an outsider’s perspective, the first ingredient is obvious as their family vineyards are some of the best sites in Ambonnay… with great raw material comes great responsibility! The fame of Ambonnay’s Pinot Noir focused wines is well documented, but the small batch wines from H. Billiot remain some of the best kept secrets to come out of this village. Laetitia’s wines seem to nail the very difficult challenge of achieving a balance between power and elegance, without holding back the strength of fruit that her vineyards provide.
Kevin Wardell, January 2022
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H. BILLIOT ET FILS RÉSERVE BRUT
+ 25% CHARDONNAY
Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims, France NV
What jumps out right away is the interlacing flavors of both the Chardonnay and Pinot, despite the majority of red fruit in this wine. There are equal parts green apples, yellow plums and bing cherries, with young strawberries dancing together on the nose. This soundtrack is clearly being provided by a whole oven of fresh baked crispy brioche goodness. There’s a sneaky little bit of cinnamon raisin bread with salted butter on the palate. The acidity more than stands up strong to these sweeter flavors, and the mouthfeel is plump, ample and unending.
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay from 2017, 2016, 2015. All Ambonnay Grand Cru fruit from limestone, clay, chalk mix of mid-slope sites. No malo, Stainless fermentation and then sur latte for 36 Months. Disgorged May 2021 11g/L dosage
H. BILLIOT ET FILS ROSÉ BRUT
+ 20% CHARDONNAY
Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims, France NV
All the things you want and expect out of a Grand Cru Rosé, and then some. Strawberries and rhubarb, red currants and hibiscus tea, rose hips and rose water. There’s a peppery spice that jumps through early on the palate and compliments the raw biscuit dough richness. Folded into that dough, there is a touch of wild mint and basil as well. Fresh, ripe and tart layers of red fruit chased by mouth watering crunchiness and a lingering blood orange refreshing finish. All in all, this rosé has it all, and it’s all good. Like really good.
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay – 10% of the Pinot in the form of still red wine Fruit from 2017, 2016, 2015, all Ambonnay Grand Cru. No malo, no filtration. Stainless steel fermented and sur latte 36 Months. Disgorged March 2021 9g/L dosage