ALL RED WINE CLUB
DECEMBER 2021
HEAR!! HEAR!! A TOAST!!
Every year in December we choose to simply celebrate great wines. Be it a familiar classic like Dolcetto, that makes you thankful for the good ones in your life. Or the noble Nebbiolo, playing a new part in distinctly different soils, reminding us that shaking up routine is a good thing. Or perhaps our ole fav Lacrima, evoking fond memories through its Bergamot-esque aromatics. Or finally, a wine from a grape variety from Lazio with a legendary past, a lackluster present and a lustrous future.
The point is that sometimes it is not the time to study, to mentally disassemble and try to make sense of things. Sometimes we just need to toast and drink.
During this holiday season we encourage you to fill (and refill) your glass and enjoy what it brings to the table. Our sincere thank you for continuing this journey with us. All the best to you this holiday season!
Kevin Wardell, December 2021
MARCO CARPINETI ‘CAPOLEMOLE’ ROSSO
+ 30% MONTEPULCIANO
+ 10% CESANESE
Lazio, Italy 2018
60% NERO BUONO + 30% MONTEPULCIANO + 10% CESANESE
[NEH-roh buò‧no] + [MOHN-teh-pool-CHEE’AH-noh] + [chay-sah-NEH-zeh]
Nero Buono, native to Lazio, is used in blending Cori rosso wines under the Cori DOC, along with Montepulciano and Cesanese. It is part of a club of red grapes with dark skins and dark juice, known as ‘teinturiers’ (to dye or stain in French). For many years, these rare grapes were revered for this attribute, but fell out of favor due to its lack of prolific growth. Nero Buono does it’s best work in the local mix of soils – Calcareous, which helps firm up its structure, and Volcanic, which helps give mineral depth beyond its juicy demeanor.
While it is natural to associate the prolific Montepulciano grape with Abruzzo (as in the revered Montepulciano d’Abruzzo) it is actually one of the most planted grapes in Italy and certainly plays a supporting part in the wine landscape of Lazio. But the most important red grape here is native Cesanese, considered one of the more interesting Italian varieties on the rebound. It’s a challenging grape, as it ripens late, despite the sunny climate it inhabits in Rome.
According to Ian D’Agata, Marco Carpineti is considered “the most important living expert” of the Bellone grape. He took over the helm of his multi-generation family estate in 1986, where his vision for healthy living extended into his philosophy for the winery. Carpineti has been practicing organic farming since 1994 here on the Lepini mountain slopes in Cori, Lazio, an ancient town that dates back to the fourth century B.C. 41 of the 52 hectares are planted with vineyards while the remaining property is planted with olive trees.
A deep, dark, ruby red looker. Ripe blackberry pie generously topped with orange zest, baked inside an old wood cabin. There is a warm southern climate soul here, the warm lushness of fruit feels like summer as it goes down. But there are also some complex flavors here reminiscent of Bordeaux – raisinets, wild blackberry, violet, and a bit of clove. The combination of Nero Buono’s intensity, Montelpuciano’s robustness and structure, with Cesanese’s bright acidity and playfulness make for a true dazzler. This is a proper food wine that would easily stand up to some duck ragu over pappardelle.
The sun exposure across the vineyards range from 250-350 meters above sea level, resulting in the ripening of grapes at different times, altering the character of the wines from year to year. Wines are also aged in different oak barrels, for 12 months.
LUIGI GIUSTI
Marche, Italy, 2019
LACRIMA [LAH-kri-ma]
Indigenous to the Marche region, the aromatic Lacrima grape nearly suffered extinction. It was saved in 1985 with the DOC creation, which brought new interest and demand for the wine, requiring 85% of the grape, though it is arguable that the best expressions are 100%. Lacrima was once bountiful across the Marche, Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Campania, Puglia, and Umbria, yet it is only prolific in the Marche now, mainly in the Ancona province, where Lacrima de Morro d’Alba wine is produced (not to be confused with town of Alba in the Barbaresco and Barolo region.)
Lacrima wines have traditionally been defined as light, sweet wines, though recently, some have been produced that show more dense, complex and tremendously perfumed character.
uigi Giusti began growing grapes in 1965 in Castelferretti, a town on the northeastern edge of the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba appellation, close to the Adriatic coast. Through the following two decades, he worked on renovating the property, including 12 hectares of vineyards. Sadly, he passed away in 1987 before he fully realized his dream. His two sons, Piergiovanni and Filippo picked up where their father left off in reinvigorating the estate, bringing in state-of-the-art equipment and modernizing the wine production techniques.
Vinified in steel and aged for only a few months in barrel, Luigi Giusti’s wine is a more concentrated yet soft style, retaining classic perfumey notes of the grape.
Lacrima’s sweet nose is so very distinct here, from the Earl Grey tea to red rose, subtle saffron to lavender and wildflower. Dare we say there’s even an inkling of bergamot? It’s easy on the palate with medium body and smooth tannins and a whole lot of floral, fruity fun. Throw in a DJ, zydeco and let it play out.
It’s calling out for some sweet meats or spicy coppa or short rib and other braised meats. On the other hand, a dark chocolate mousse or pot de crème would match the sweet floral aromatics in a smashing way.
The Lacrima grape’s name meaning “tear” in Italian, was allegedly named so due to the fact that the berries frequently burst, resembling shedding tears.
CANTINA DEL PINO
Alba, Piedmont, Italy 2020
DOLCETTO [dohl-CHEHT-oh]
Don’t let the name of this dark-skinned grape fool you. While its name “little sweet one” implies its low acidity, sweet Dolcetto wines aren’t easy to find. Because of its adaptability and early and easy ripening, it reads as a poor cousin to Nebbiolo and Barbera, and is grown in regions where these others don’t produce as well, in higher altitudes, in the Monferrato hills of northwestern Italy. Ironically, the cooler locale actually helps the grape retain acidity and avoid premature ripening.
Typical Dolcetto wines display a solid amount of spicy aromas with nutty undertones. Best when opened within three or four years from vintage.
Domizio Cavazza, the original owner of the estate, was the director of the Royal Enological School in Alba from 1888-1913. He purchased land in Barbaresco to build his home, and in celebration of his first son’s birth, he planted a Mediterranean Pine tree, which became a well-known landmark. The name stuck to the estate, and Cantina del Pino (“Pine Tree Cellar”) was born.
After Cavazza’s premature death, the Vacca family purchased the vineyards surrounding the Ovello hill, and have been making wine since, for four generations. The Vacca family use a natural, hands-on winemaking approach and do not use any chemical fertilization, pesticides or herbicides.
The textbook spices awaft: cinnamon, star anise and a touch of burnt sugar all hop from the glass like you’ve just opened the oven. A well balanced bolt of vibrant tartness with dark blackberry fruit and a hint of caramel and licorice. Add to that a wave of earthy-sweet pipe tobacco, a backbone of light, crisp tannins, and a plump round finish- this is where there is magic in Dolcetto. Just enough complexity to be interesting, more than enough fun flavor to be delicious. There couldn’t be a better match for barbecued pork.
Dolcetto has been known to be put in a bit of a maligned category, from slightly bitter and one dimensional table wines which have anchored it’s reputation. Cantina del Pino and several other Barbaresco producers are working hard to change that. Judge for yourself!
ALFIO MOZZI
‘GRISONE”
SASSELLA
Castione Andevenno, Lombardia, Italy 2015
NEBBIOLO [neh-bee-OH-low]
Call it big red. It’s bold and tannic, and a grape to be reckoned with, as it should be, considering it has withstood the test of time as one of the oldest Italian varieties.. While it dates back to the 13th century, it is now most notably associated with the highly desirable DOCG Barbaresco and Barolo wines (and priced accordingly.) Nebbiolo does thrive in other parts of Italy, where lesser known high quality gems can be found. In the Valtellina valley in Lombardia there is a perfect example: Valtellina Superiore, made from 100% Nebbiolo, which stylistically shows a softer side of the grape and certainly gives the big B boys a run for their money.
Alfio Mozzi was a working blacksmith for eleven years before he was drawn back to the family business of making wine. He dedicated himself to the craft, and founded his winery in 1998. His three wines are all Nebbiolo based, grown in the Valtellina valley on terraced vines that sit on slopes above the river Adda. The prime Il Grisone site varies in altitude from 350-600 meters and allows for harvesting of each vine at different times when they are at their peak ripeness.
The soil is composed of 80% sandstone and 20% limestone. The vineyards are in the process of being classified as organic with one hectare currently farmed biodynamically.
Bold in texture, yet it doesn’t carry the bite of Nebbiolo from Barolo. More delicate than brawn, and more feminine in the way that Barbaresco is oft compared, but there is no mistaking that this is a mountain girl with a delightfully earthy disposition. Woodsy forest floor, aromatic tea leaves, ripe red plum plucked from the tree, and some preserved Marasca Cherries all co-mingle confidently both in the nose and on the palate. But like all good Nebbiolo, regardless of attitude or altitude, it is an impressive lesson in balance between dusty worn leather and a refined velvet style. This mountain girl wears both oh so well and then finishes with a twirl of lingering cocoa tannin that will make you swoon.
One theory of the grape name’s origin is the Latin term “nubiola” or “nebbia” in Italian, both meaning “fog.” This refers to the fog which envelops the Piedmont vineyards in late fall when the grapes ripen.
