ALL RED WINE CLUB
MARCH 2021
Three wines From: March 2021 Italian Wine Club – MARCHE MADNESS!
One Wine From: March 2021 Rebel Grape Society – THREE LITTLE BIRDS
DOWNLOAD PDF OF TASTING NOTES HERE
VILLA LIGI ‘VERNACULUM’ ALEATICO SUPERIORE
Pergola, Marche 2015
ALEATICO [ah-leh-AT-tee-koh]
This variety is an interesting example of how mistaken identities and pseudonyms can be obstacles to success. Locally known as Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola, which is terribly confusing as there were countless ‘Vernaccia’ wines throughout Italy with zero actual relation. Many also mistook it for Moscato Nero (Black Muscat) pigeon hole-ing it as a minor blending grape or for sweet wine. Francesco Tonelli, an agronomist and sommelier, decided to leave his job as a teacher to search for rare and old vines of the local Vernaccia Rossa. He reproduced, replanted, and helped to establish this tiny “Pergola” appellation – a whopping total of 45 hectares, made up of just two other producers.
Tucked into a hillside with the jagged peaks of the Central Apennine Mountains as the backdrop, this remote (and jaw droppingly stunning) location is home to grape varieties and wines that are a far cry from center stage. The Tonelli family makes certain their wines are proudly reflective of their tradition and territory, but they are not afraid to experiment either (e.g. Riesling, sold in magnums only, and a solid Method Champenoise Chard/Verdicchio.) Stefano Tonelli and his wife Lea now run much of the winery operations and couldn’t be more kind and thoughtful, salt of the earth folks.
One of the most exciting things about learning Italian wine grape by grape is this moment- when a wine this distinctly unique is put in front of you. Lavender and brewed cinnamon, wild strawberries and raspberries as well as some pomegranate juice. The Vernaculum is a surprisingly serious wine, despite its playful nature, that has a rare ability to not only pair well with food, but could for some truly unforgettable combinations. There is ample acidity there to snuggle up to some earthy partners like mushrooms and truffles.
The Pergola growing region is a hidden treasure even for Le Marche. This is where you can find some serious truffles, both Black and the far more precious White variety… all at a much lower cost than in Piedmont!
LUIGI GIUSTI
LACRIMA DI MORRO D'ALBA
Marche, Italy 2018
LACRIMA [la-kri-ma]
Lacrima is an Italian word you may recognize, meaning tear or tear drop. So named for the loose shape of the grapes that can resemble tears. Or because the fragile thin skins of the grape have a tendency to break and let go teardrops of juice. Or is it simply just so good it will bring tears to your eyes? As with many Italian wines and grapes, the explanation is best left to a good story. You decide. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba was nearing extinction in the early 80’s, as it was rapidly losing ground to the more popular, and far more prolific Montepulciano grape, but all this changed with the arrival of DOC recognition. Luigi Giusti played a key part in it’s revival with his vineyards planted in coastal clay just a few kilometers from the Adriatic Sea. It is not at all easy to grow, but the reward is evident. Witnessing the ear to ear smiles of locals filling their damigiana with Lacrima (for, like, €5) is more than enough to elicit an Amen.
Luigi’s son, Piergiovanni Giusti is simply the greatest. His infectious grin makes you instantly feel like he’s got something figured out. His self deprecating humility says otherwise, though it is equally charming. There is no greater champion for this difficult grape variety, via his personality and his magic touch. Piergiovanni notes that a number of people have tried growing Lacrima elsewhere and failed “It is extremely loyal to its home and the people who have always cared for it.” Ever willing to experiment, Piergiovanni makes two Riserva bottlings to explore the grapes potential interactions with oak (try the Rubbjano wherever you can) as well as two delicately perfumed rose wines, sparkling and still.
When it comes to wildly aromatic red grape varieties, Lacrima clearly reigns supreme. Earl Grey Tea, due not only to the distinct Bergamot citrus scent, but there is also a slightly dusty black tea like tannin to this wine. Red Cherries galore with a whiff of Nag Champa. Blueberry confit, dusted with dried wild thyme and blood orange peel dusted with dried thyme. Take a minute to consider this wine, it’s incredible to think about how a grape can boast such a naturally intense scent and flavor. Pair with a spreadable salumi, like the local fav Ciauscolo or ‘Nduja, or a wild mushroom and bechamel lasagna.
If you want to try a sweet wine that causes instant euphoria, Giusti also makes a traditional ‘Visciola’ (Lacrima fermented with dried sour cherries) that will make your head spin. In a good way. acknowledge this officially, but there’s quite a bit of it planted here so they’ll have to sort this out eventually.
SAN LORENZO
'BURELLO' ROSSO PICENO
+ 40% SANGIOVESE
Marche, Italy 2016
MONTEPULCIANO [MOHN-teh-pool-CHEE’AH-noh] + SANGIOVESE [san-GEE-OH-vay-say]
In the Marche region it is said, by the locals of course, that Montepulciano is a different type, if not a different grape entirely, from the one heavily grown in Abruzzo. This point of view does not scientifically pan out, but there is a noticeable difference. The results can be more likely attributed to the usual suspects: soil, farming approach and microclimates. It has so many great qualities – high yields, disease resistant, loves warmer weather. For much of the region it is blended with Sangiovese, like in this central Rosso Piceno appellation, but the varietal Montepulciano wines from the small, coastal Conero DOCG, as well as a number of examples from further down the coast ( down to Offida) are the real powerhouses.
Natalino is a third generation farmer that has carried on his organic and biodynamic practices the same way he has been taught all his life. His property can seem much more like a bio-diverse petting zoo than most vineyards out there (see: wine labels.) He is primarily known for making Verdicchios that can seemingly age forever. He works with the typical red grapes – Montepulciano, Sangiovese – and even makes a little bit of Lacrima. He has an infectious joie de vivre and laugh that you can hear across the room.
Brooding dark cherry compote and cinnamon bark mixed with sweet potting soil and fresh mushrooms. Some baked black plums with touch of dried suede leather with cocoa tannins that come on slow and suave but with the definitive muscle of the Montepulciano grape. 2016 was the best recent growing year in Le Marche, and this wine not only shows the potential, but is also a high standard for quality in the Rosso Piceno DOC.
Natalino actually has a walled off ‘secret room’ in his cellar where, in great vintages, he will put whole tanks of Verdicchio aside to sleep for at least a decade!
BIRDS OF PASSAGE
Santa Ynez Valley, California 2019
GAMAY [Ga-Māy]
There’s precious little Gamay in California but fortunately folks are getting wise to this grape’s glugglable goodness and planting Gamay in varied sites, including the home of this wine: the Savannah Oaks vineyard, a 25-acre mixed site on the northern edge of the Santa Ynez Valley. The Birds harvest this fruit early to retain it’s fresh acidity and aromatics, and they ferment the Gamay, destemmed, in open-top stainless steel for 18 days. It’s aged in neutral French oak for 6 months before bottling of a miniscule 75 cases. At just 11% abv this wine has a mind-boggling low alcohol content for all its play, character and aromatics.
The Birds of Passage project is the clever winecraft of three birds flocking together: Henry Beylen, the wine director of LA’s beloved Venice restaurant Gjelina, and husband and wife crew Peter Hunken and Amy Christine MW, the team behind Holus-Bolus wines. Peter has made wine in Lompoc since 2001, working as assistant winemaker at Stolpman Vineyards and as co-founder of Piedrasassi through 2008. Amy and Peter met in 2004 and have made wine together since, while she also represents Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. And in 2013 Amy became a Master of Wine, one of only thirteen women in the US to rock the MW title. Henry Beylen sought out the Holus-Bolus winemakers at their winery in the “Lompoc Wine Ghetto” with a flight of fancy in mind- to make wines for Gjelina restaurant that were delicious and intriguing and made from organic vineyards in Santa Barbara County. The birds made their debut in 2018 with their first rosé, and the following year with their Grenache Blanc and Gamay. These three wines from our clever birds are yet another feather in California’s cap, proving what great grapes on great sites can do in the right rebel’s hands.
This wine is crazy aromatic out of the gate, with cinnamon and wild feral brambly black raspberries. This is brick dust and yet velvety, exotic and yet somehow nostalgic. Hard to get your nose out of this glass, actually. Super compelling, but is it so very Gamay..? There is something intriguingly Jura-ssic, or maybe passe-tout-grainy, like bad-boy Burgundy on a surf trip in Southern California. All are truly wonderfully delicious things to be sensing out of this glass, just not the classic punchy Gamay notes one might expect. Restrained in ripeness but not at all lacking in body. Opens gracefully, even better day two.